An Extraordinary 2 Days in Alabama

A JOURNALISTIC PHOTO RECOLLECTION OF A TWO DAY BUS TRIP TO ALABAMA, EXPLORING HISTORY OF INTEGRATION IN THE MIDDLE YEARS OF THE 20TH CENTURY

We do not intend to provide a full history of those important times but rather to present important places with good photography, hopefully brought to life by the text.  To experience it all first hand, you need the means of transportation and a nights lodging in Montgomery.  Oh, yes, to be able to walk a mile is recommended.

For me, it begins here in Clinton, Tennessee.

1956:Twelve black kids finally were able to attend the same high school as other kids in the town. They later became known as the Clinton 12.  There was much agitation from segregationists and outsiders who came to disrupt and prevent a peaceful implementation of recent Federal Court orders to integrate the school. In 1958, a dynamite explosion virtually destroyed the high school building but no lives were lost.

    ( 1956 Clinton High School Desegregation from the Knoxville Journal Collection  Attribution for creative Commons License.) 

A representation of the Clinton 12, statues of the twelve teens on a tense walk to the high school when first integrated.  

As we join our tour group, I have to think of these youngsters in the small town of Clinton, walking down  Broad Street, the road partially seen below the figures in the photograph. The prominent building is the courthouse and approximate location of the high school in 1956 is shown at the light gray patch marked "school". The location is now a middle school, hidden by the trees in this photograph. Destroyed by a dynamite bomb in 1958, the kids had no school of their own for more than 3 years and attended in the neighboring town of Oak Ridge.   Still, integration had not come to parts of the South.

We thought we knew much of the story of the times. The days in Alabama proved how much more there was to learn in history and in the heart. But first, there is the bus ride. 

As we board the bus, the church and this photo is a few hours and several hundred miles away.  First, there is the bus ride and meeting men and women many of whom we do not know.  It happens that one lady was a teenager in Montgomery when the integration efforts got going.  There was a boycott of the bus service and black folks would rather walk than ride the bus. As a youngster, the lady we met did just that..walked to town.  We were a mixed bunch racially and that opened the door to great conversation on the way.

We hoped for better weather in Birmingham. the bus was in rain most of the drive there.

 Road lights made for a Christmas tree of color in the rain drops on the windshield.

Our bus ride to Birmingham was highlighted by the 16th Street Baptist Church. The church was bombed 7 years later than the Clinton High School, taking the lives of 4 young girls who happened to be in a room near the explosion.

The 16th Street Church is the first stop on this journalistic tour...

A memorial to Dr. M. L. King stands in this park across the street from the 

beautiful old church building. The dynamite explosion was located on the right side of building, just out of view in this image.  The sculpture in memory of the four girls killed is near the street just beyond the M. L. King statue. Note the fourth girl statue (which was not in my close photo) to your left of the King statue.

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Please keep in mind, this article illustrates and describes events of the trip.  Historical events and     locations visited will be presented in large pieces, of necessity missing many fine details of social happenings from the days of hard fought integration.  We are not here to accept blame for times in which we had no connection whatsoever, to scapegoat or place blame.  There is enough verified history for any interested reader to research those times and find conclusions that if such is your purpose.  Happenings such as the horrific  bombing of the 16th St. Baptist Church in Birmingham are told as we have learned the event happened. We intend not to dwell on the mistakes, crimes and misguided efforts, horrendous as might have been during those historic times. Rather, we present the tragedies but dwell on what we experienced in relationship with other people of all races encountered on the 2 day Bus Trip to Alabama.  The history was at times difficult.  The people we encountered in Birmingham, Montgomery, Tuskegee and along the way were wonderful.  I say that again, the people we were around and with whom sometimes found a shared motivation...and people in general along the way were kind, helpful and pleasant.

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So, getting back into the story of our days in Alabama, focus is on the good and not tragedies of the historical times that often occupied our minds and wound the heart.The tragic event described next is intrinsic to the history and will be be told briefly.

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On September 16 , 1963 the congregation was assembled for the service. Four young girls were in the ladies, room at the side of the building.  A dynamite blast shook the church, destroying the room with the four young ladies and killing all four.  There is a memorial sculpture in the park across the street..note the likenesses of three girls. Lower right, partially out of frame is a pair of shoes.  Her body destroyed by the explosion and unidentifiable, the shoes were the identified evidence of who was there.  The fourth girl is to the right, out of frame.

Google image provides this page of photographs.

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LET'S GO INSIDE THE CHURCH AND LOOK AROUND

One item of fine art in stained glass clearly demonstrates that people thousands of miles away heard of the events, without Twitter, Facebook or smartphones and their hearts were touched with empathy.

 

A few have noticed the stained glass art work but many have not yet seen it. This group seems oblivious to me standing there with a larger than normal camera.  When I said, "May I take your picture", the cell phones vanished(just for a moment) and smiles lit this front row. 

One person turned and held up their phone to take a photo. In a second, a crowd had risen "as if in praise" , all turned to see the strange figure. Exposure was on the stained glass, leaving the sanctuary underexposed.

Did the world hear the dynamite blast?  This fine art in stained glass shows a dark skinned Jesus, his right hand pushing away oppression and the left hand welcoming those who need comfort.

The window was a gift from the peoples of Wales.

We went out and around the church to see a memorial placed after the bombing and rebuilding.

A lady reads aloud the Eulogy given by Martin Luther King.

Click here to read the eulogy.

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ABOUT TO LEAVE BIRMINGHAM . A PARAGRAPH OF PERSONAL IMPRESSIONS OF THE TRIP AT THIS POINT is what WAS INTENDED. WHEN IT COMES DOWN TO IT,  I DO NOT HAVE A SUMMATION OF MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE AS I SHOULD WRITE IT.  THE TRIP HAD A GREAT IMPACT ON MY THINKING AND MY APPRECIATION OF THE MANY WHO WORKED DILIGENTLY TO BRING INTEGRATION TO FRUITION. I WAS NOT LEFT WITH GUILT FOR ACTS I DID NOT COMMIT YET FELT  EMPATHY FOR THOSE PEOPLE WHO STILL AGONIZE OVER THE EVENTS. THE HISTORICAL ASPECTS AND TRUTH BECAME MORE KEEN WITH A CLEARER SENSE OF PERSPECTIVE AND THE NEED FOR RATIONAL AND LOVING THINKING ... AND REASONING. MY THINKING WAS LESS TEMPERED WITH OVERSENSITIVE POLITICAL CORRECTNESS AND OPENED TO HONEST DIALOG, SOMETIMES SENSITIVE SPEECH WHICH ADHERENTS TO EXTREME P.C. OFTEN WOULD RATHER NOT BE PART.

AS FOR NOW, I DO NOT PRESENT CONCLUSIONS BEYOND THESE. 

Governor George Wallace went on to run in presidential primaries, was shot and  permanently paralyzed..no more standing or walking from then on.  He made an effort after that and some personal mellowing, to say his strong segregationist position was political and he followed that  political calling over the callings of  his heart.  A woman at the 16th Street Church said one day a door opened and George Wallace rolled in.  He apologized for his position on segregation and the bombing.  Some say the church forgave him.  Others said, "forgiveness, yes..but they would not forget."  

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Scroll to the end of this article for explanation of "Jim Crow Law"-------

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NEXT, WE GO TO MONTGOMERY  AND THE DEXTER AVE. CHURCH, THE PLACE THE PASTOR MARTIN LUTHER KING HAD HIS OFFICE WITH IN EASY EYE SHOT OF THE CAPITOL BUILDING AND WHERE HE PLANNED THE BUS BOYCOTT OF 1955-1956.

Back on the bus headed to Montgomery.

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This google™ map shows the main points of interest  we visited

along Dexter Avenue in Montgomery.  Our walk was from Court Square (where the fountain is)

to Dexter Church, office of Dr. King at the time, to the capitol building. Photos follow with closer views from the walk to the capitol building.

• Court Square is marked by a beautiful fountain, showing awareness and support of the fight against breast cancer on the day we visited.  When slave trade was active in Montgomery, a platform was set-up in the same location to handle the display and sales. Buildings to the left of the fountain from the map view were used to warehouse new additions to the slave market.
• The church with distinctive red roof held the pastor's office, with the shadow of the capitol building. Within only 1.5 blocks from the state capitol, I had to wonder, who was more intent on watching whom!  Martin Luther King was the pastor and following the arrest of Rosa Parks for violating the Jim Crow* law requiring her to sit in the back of of a public bus and give up her seat to any white person, Dr. King was in that office helping plan the 2 year bus boycott by Blacks.  Interesting enough, many "colored" ladies worked as housekeepers and(as I was told) their white employers would often give the housekeepers rides to work and to the shopping areas.

The state capitol building of Alabama is an impressive structure at the high end of Dexter avenue.  There is a monument to Jefferson Davis and part of the Confederate cause.The capitol steps were the location of a famous speech by Dr. King.

* An explanation of "Jim Crow" will be provided with a web link later in this article.

Walking From Court Square to the State Capitol Building

This is the fountain in Court Square, the beginning of our walk up the avenue to the  capitol building.  African people were sold in this area to be slaves. 

 Our guide provided in depth history along the walk. Oh, he happens to be a professor of rhetoric...
and quite knowledgeable on the subjects of our bus trip..

This fountain is where a platform would be erected for display and sale of African people into slavery.  Today as we saw the fountain, pink ribbons celebrated efforts to fight breast cancer. The sign on the left side says simply "I work my buns for boobs".  

This is looking up the avenue to the capitol building. The Dexter Ave. Church where Dr. King was pastor is about 1.5 blocks up on the right.

See the little girl finding relief from bright sun behind the marker?  The next photo is her at the top steps of the capitol building.   She might not have been allowed there in years of integration and Jim Crow laws.

These commemorative markers  shared similar locations but on opposite sides of the avenue.
I should hope the Jefferson Davis marker is protected as is the one on the right for Dr. King. Political correctness is a faulty excuse to remove history and as President of the Confederacy, Jefferson Davis is an honest part of history.

The Capitol Building of the State of Alabama

Red was a natural for the text color (Crimson Tide,UA) 

 

 Monument to the Confederacy

located up the steps and to the left on the Capitol Grounds

The Dexter St. Church had Martin Luther King as Pastor, his office looking up to the capitol a few short blocks away.  Who was looming over whom?

 


 


 Hot day in Alabama...resting before going a couple of blocks down the street to see and tour the Dexter Avenue church.

 Our group at the entrance to the Dexter Avenue King Memorial Church.

 The docent was excellent, entertaining and thorough in historical information.

 And, she could sing! Everyone on the tour was roused to good spirits by an old gospel song.

Call it a day...a day full of history, good people and a "refresher" for us not knowing the events of integration in Alabama as well as we thought.  Now is time for BBQ then to the motel. I think we all were surprised at the accommodations. More than expected for the tour ticket price.  If you happen to consider Embassy Suites, here is a look inside:

There is room enough to snore...

Tomorrow, we are back on the bus headed to Tuskegee...home of Tuskegee University , then what we have waited to do...to meet and hopefully speak with Fred Gray, Civil Rights Attorney and the lawyer for Rosa Parks when she was arrested for not giving her bus seat to a white man.  Mr. Gray is elderly and eloquent, congenial and dedicated to his lifelong fight to end cultural discrimination. 

Then, to the airport and museum of the Tuskegee Airmen, an outstanding group of fighter pilots who trained right there. They became famous for superior performance as escort fighters for bombers during WW2.  They flew the marvelous P58 Mustang.

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Back on the Bus

 I was handed a speech given by Booker T. Washington in Atlanta in 1895. I was surprised by his advocacy of submission and appeasement at the best way for "the negro to survive well  in the white man's land.   We would soon be at Tuskegee University where he was president for several years, years of development, change and growth of that good university.  Dr. George Washington Carver would be well represented at the university and a museum is there dedicated to him.  His work in agricultural development intended to improve the poorest man(the man"farthest down").  I looked forward to seeing more  of these famous men. 
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We arrived at Tuskegee...a highlight of the trip and the chancde to meet and photograph 
Fred Gray, renowned Civil Rights Attorney.  We arrived at his "Human And Civil Rights
 Multicultural Center. We arrived a little after 9 a.m. and went upstairs to a room where three young ladies from Auburn, Alabama were in an interview of Dr. Gray, gathering information for national competition documentary.  They would take their documentary to Washington, D.C for final judging.  Watching these three bright young ladies ask questions and make notes, the kindness of Mr. Gray was quite apparent.  He knew the importance of helping in this documentary and the wonderful value of the project to the girls.  This is something they will always have to remember.  In fact, a fine memory, too, for me and everyone else on our trip. 
Several of us purchased a book personally signed by Fred Gray.  

He apparently does not use the term Dr. with his name, an honorary degree well earned in the real life he lived and devoted to justice and elimination of discrimination.

There is a striking floor memorial with the names of men victimized in the Tuskegee Syphilis experiment. 

What happened in the name of medical research is shocking.

 
I present photographs of Fred Gray, his interview with the young ladies and some of our group while there.  Facial expressions tell much in these images.

One of the young documentary makers speaking with a reporter from the local news.

The three young ladies from Auburn, Alabama. 

They are home schooled.

B/W version of the interview. They asked well researched questions; he answered fully with clarity.

The young documentary makers, relaxed when the interview
was completed.



Book signing

                                 Light discussion following events of the interview.                                  

This is certainly the most treasured photograph of the Alabama trip.  Fred Gray..showing what we felt is a face of the Righteousness to Keep Alive his Goal of Human Justice

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Copy right protected, U. S. copyright office, Library of Congress

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Now, it is back on the bus and to  Tuskegee University for  quick walkabout and visit to the Carver museum and Booker T. Washington Home.

Booker T. Washington was the first president of Tuskegee Institute, then called Tuskegee Normal School.  He did a good job of solidifying the school even with his desire to teach young blacks industrial and agricultural craft above higher education. His belief was that by serving the white man in such trades the “negro” would accomplish more than higher education would provide.  His home at Tuskegee was essentially built from scratch by black students, from making the bricks to forming wood for floors and shutters.  It was unusual in having the luxury of electricity and steam heat. 

Lighting in the house today uses lamps as would have been in the home when occupied:  Low wattage and little light output.  We were asked not to use flash photography and many images were too dark to use in this blog article.  This park service page shows the interior better than my photos and I suspect they used what means was necessary to properly light the interior rooms. This link will provide a better view of some areas.

 Light at the time of our visit shadowed the house,

 hiding the red of student produced bricks.

 Dark shutters and low light rendered most of the interior quite dark.

 The flooring was milled and installed by students.

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The rooms below are shown with no need for text comment.

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THE GEORGE WASHINGTON CARVER  MUSEUM

He did about everything that could be done with the peanut

and much, much more to improve the agricultural health

of the farmer and of the South.

 At this point, I was concerned that once sitting comfortably,

these fine folks might want to stay there!  We had too little time in this

museum full of wonders.

This Link will tell more of the Carver Museum.  For more, take an Internet jump

to the Carver Museum and Library in Austin, Texas. 

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OUR TRIP IS WINDING DOWN WITH AN EXCITING FINAL STOP.

That is Moton Field, the small airport where the Tuskegee Airman 

were trained and where a museum is housed in revamped old hanger buildings.

HOWEVER

BEFORE THAT ASK THIS QUESTION OF ANYONE WHO WAS ON THE BUS:

Did seeing the locations and looking deeper into history impact your thinking?

I have not been and am not a person who discriminates because of race so I did not return home 

feeling guilt or responsibility for the wrongful actions of others. The impact was on my heart and overall concern for humanity.  Things "came home"...that is one effect of seeing and being able to touch the actual places and parts of this significant history and to hear words first hand from a few who took part in the events in Birmingham, Montgomery and other locations in the south and north, east and west.  I did some of my growing from a youth to a young man during those times and admit I honestly did not "see" much of what was happening. Much different than with lives of the "colored" people of the time, my siblings and I were relatively isolated from problems of segregation and most definitely were not subjects of Jim Crow laws.
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THE TUSKEGEE AIRMEN

This also started as an experiment.  Those who doubted that the "negro" was intelligent enough to learn to fly an airplane were going to get their answer.  A few white officers believed the men would do well with proper training. The primary trainer was the bi-plane in the following photos, the 

PT-13D U.S. Army Air Corps Stearman.    There is a special allure to this sort of outdated airplane and part of that is the beautiful radial engine.

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Note that the cylinders radiate out and around the central shaft.

Army Air Corps Stearman.

The Tuskegee Airmen proved to be not only able to do the job but their performance in battle was outstanding. Many white bomber crews owe their hide to the fighter escort planes who fought German interceptor fighters determined to shoot the bombers out of the sky.  By then, the old trainer bi-plane was was far behind these skilled pilots and they flew arguably one of the best long range fighter planes of World War II, the North American Aviation P-51 Mustang.

 Cramped display area made good photography of the Mustangs difficult and I hesitated to include any but this photo.  It is what it is.  More on the Mustang, a Google page, take your pick!

Returning from flying and fighting in Europe, the airmen discovered the same prejudices and Jim Crow laws  smacked them like a solid wall:

 

The Freeman Field Incident 

(Click title to open a web page on this happening.)
With all their successes in the field, Tuskegee officers found that when they returned from Europe, they were still second-class citizens at home. Their contributions to American freedom had not endeared them to some of their white military brothers, and some feared lynching by mobs if they dared to leave the base.

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What is meant by "Jim Crow" Laws?

 Throughout the 1830s and '40s, the white entertainer Thomas Dartmouth Rice (1808-1860) performed a popular song-and-dance act supposedly modeled after a slave. He named the character Jim Crow. The character depicted black Americans as buffoons.  Ferris University has an excellent web page on the origin and implementation of "Jim Crow" (click this link)

During the late 1960's I visited a university in Nashville, Tennessee for a reason lost to memory. What I clearly remember is three black men being turned away from a church..that Sunday morning they were met at the front door and asked to go somewhere else.  Walking in the University, I saw restrooms labeled "men", " women" and "colored".  The water fountain had a simple sign:" WHITE ONLY".  Yes, Jim Crow was in effect.  

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So , now the time has come for -30-      End of Story.   

Leave a comment if you want. I will appreciate your thoughts.